Summary
Overview
Dr. Zand and Dr. Chris explore the science of dry skin and skincare with consultant dermatologist Professor Tess McPherson. They cut through the marketing confusion of the beauty industry to reveal what actually works: simple, affordable routines focused on skin health rather than perfection. The episode covers washing, moisturizing, the role of emollients, and addresses how societal pressures and marketing create unrealistic skin ideals while emphasizing that healthy skin comes in all types and colors.
Understanding Dry Skin and Skin Barriers
Tess McPherson explains that dry skin results from less moisture retention due to genetic differences in skin proteins that affect barrier function. The skin barrier isn't just a plastic bag holding us together - it's a dynamic process that either holds moisture in well or doesn't. Some people have genetic conditions like ichthyosis causing very dry skin, while others simply have a dry skin type that's more prone to eczema.
- Dry skin comes from genetic differences in skin proteins affecting barrier function
- Skin barrier is a dynamic process, not just a simple protective layer
- Ichthyosis represents genetic conditions causing very dry skin
- Dry skin types are more prone to developing eczema
" Your skin barrier is really the essential way that your skin holds moisture in or doesn't hold it in so well. So there's lots of genetic pathways that will affect how prone to dryness you are. "
The Truth About Washing and Soap
For people with dry skin, soap is the enemy. Soaps are designed to strip oil from things, which makes dry skin worse. Tess recommends switching to emollients - which are just fancy moisturizers - for washing instead. Even water alone is very drying for dry skin types. The key is using a moisturizer or emollient with water when washing to prevent moisture loss.
- Soaps strip skin of oils and moisture, making dry skin worse
- Emollients are moisturizers that come as lotions, creams, or ointments
- Water alone is very drying for people with dry skin
- Modern emollients can mix with water to be used as wash products
" If you have a dry type skin the first thing to do is wash with something that's called an emollient which doesn't have soap doesn't have bubbles and doesn't have perfume or fragrance in it because all these things will both strip your skin of moisture and can also cause irritation on your skin. "
" Water on its own is very drying. So, you know, it's almost imperative to use a moisturizer or an emollient with your water to wash if you have dry skin. "
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